OLD SAN JUAN. This dark, sophisticated spot in the baroque Banco Popular also offers a terrace with great views of the ships in the harbor. Black and white dominate in a bistro space accented with marble tables and a Steinway grand piano. Owner Carli Muñoz used to play with the Beach Boys (among many other groups) and entertains nightly at the café. The menu is a continental tour that includes seared loin of lamb and duck rissolé.

Fusion cuisine at its height in the hands of chef Alfredo Ayala. The eponymous dish chayote stuffed with prosciutto, cheese and tomatoes in a tempura batter is just one of a host of dishes that combine a preponderance of seafood in preparations with an international flair. The menu changes seasonally to take advantage of the ripest fruits and vegetables. Housed in the Olimpo hotel, it may be the ultra mod decor or the lure of anonymity in the basement level that attracts celebrities.

CABO ROJO. 15 minutes outside of Mayaguez, the tarpon on the menu of this casual establishment is so fresh you can see it swimming as you sit on the enclosed deck that is built out over the water, or from the windows of the interior dining room. Name your craving: conch, red snapper, lobster, shrimp and steaks are all cooked to your specifications.

CONDADO. This spot in the heart of Condado serves up Puerto Rican seafood favorites including paella and camarones. The house specialties are a grilled seafood platter and "specialty seven rice." Sunday features credo asado. The service is efficient and friendly.

PUERTA DE TIERRA. Fresh fish and friendly service are the two hallmarks of this cozy seafood café. A delicious traditional paella and a sophisticated salmon ceviche are the specialties of the house. Thanks to the delicious food and homey charm you will want to linger over your meal.