HATO REY. Traditional tapas are served with a flourish in this little section of Spain in Hato Rey. Try the fried calamari or savory sausage. Should you find yourself there on a Friday night, you can indulge in the seafood studded paella while the flamenco floor show unfolds before you.

OLD SAN JUAN. El Convento Hotel surrounds El Picoteco in the warm embrace of its classic Spanish Mission style. In the courtyard you'll find locals lounging and playing backgammon while curious tourists lazily sip sangria. Enter the restaurant and sample the vast menu of tapas from ceviche to Spanish pizza. The paella, bursting with fresh seafood, is legendary.

CONDADO. This Catalan-style seafood restaurant features traditional Northern Spanish favorites and tapas. Begin with the baby squid, calamari or marinated salt cod or some of the other exotic shellfish tapas. Try the Rodaballo Miró, a halibut with cabrales cheese with a side of tomato bread and for dessert the custard-like Crema Catalana is a sure bet. Located in the heart of Condado.

OCEAN PARK. Right on the beach and in the Numero Uno Guest House. You can choose inside, alfresco or poolside seating. Stop here for a sophisticated lunch or enjoy tapas served from 3pm to 7pm. For supper try the pork loin spiced with island flavors. Fresh local fruit makes a light and healthy dessert.

CONDADO. A turn-of-the-century plantation house, just away from the hustle and flow of Ashford Avenue, is a favorite of locals and in-the-know visitors who come for light suppers of tapas. Try the breaded calamari in a tomato basil sauce or the conch fritters with mango and sesame. Heartier appetities will savor the veal chop stuffed with provolone, pancetta and herbs, or the fresh fish catch of the day. After dinner, stay for drinks in the popular bar that was originally a carriage house in the early 1900s.