OLD SAN JUAN. Bohemian attitude shows in the name and in the irreverant way Sanjuaneros and visitors alike lounge on the outdoor patio, linger at the bar and collect at the tables in this cafe. Though part of the fabled El Convento, it is operated independently of the hotel. The menu is varied, containing a little bit of a lot of different cuisines from sushi to ceviche. The drinks are storied and the clientele is as likely to come for drinks and the live music served up after 11pm every Tuesday through Friday.

SANTURCE. Compostela's mushroom pâté and port pastelillo (wild mushroom turnover) have made this elegant restaurant a multiple-award winner. Other specialties include grouper fillet with scallops in salsa verde. Don't worry about finding a good pairing; the 10,000 bottle wine list ensures a perfect complement for every dish and discriminating palate.

CONDADO. Fresh baked crusty breads, chewy sweet rolls and flaky croissants are sure to tempt all but the most vigilant dieters. Stop here in the morning for a cinnamon bun and coffee or a piece of quiche. For lunch, snuggle into a booth in the upper dining area and sample the pasta salads, homemade soups, wraps and sandwiches on fresh bread.

CONDADO. This spot in the heart of Condado serves up Puerto Rican seafood favorites including paella and camarones. The house specialties are a grilled seafood platter and "specialty seven rice." Sunday features credo asado. The service is efficient and friendly.

PUERTA DE TIERRA. Fresh fish and friendly service are the two hallmarks of this cozy seafood café. A delicious traditional paella and a sophisticated salmon ceviche are the specialties of the house. Thanks to the delicious food and homey charm you will want to linger over your meal.